Crossing the bar at Cardigan is always something of an experience even in benign conditions. You surf out on waves breaking on the beach at Poppit and then bear right aiming at the rocks at the foot of the Cliff Hotel. Sometimes you can have conversations with your neighbour fishing off the same rocks as you pass. Once you’re out there’s nothing but sea and even on the calmest days the waters lurch and roll with the last of the Atlantic swell. In bad conditions there’s nowhere safe to run except Fishguard or Holyhead.
Today we’re off to Fishguard, it takes three hours motoring, because there’s no wind. We spend a blissful afternoon in the rare sunshine before watching the sun bleach to apricot and the amethyst clouds darken to pewter. Lights twinkle in Goodwick and we raise a glass of malt whisky to a good day.
The next morning we motor to Cwm yr Eglwys, a sheltered bay, where we drop the anchor and settle down for another peaceful day in the sun. Peaceful that is until two yachts from Cardigan appear and we get a visit from groovy old retired vicar, Godfrey. Godfrey’s one of the breed of what we call ‘Bloody Buggering Old Boys’ a term coined when the girls, Tom and I were berthed next to a crew of them in Cherbourg and had to listen to them shouting ‘Bloody this’ or ‘Bugger that’ deep into the night.
Actually, I’ve got a lot of time for Godfrey who seems to get roped in to conduct funerals for most of his chums. Tom and I were present when Godfrey conducted the funeral for our yacht club’s founding member, Ian, a long-term sailing friend of Godfrey’s. He must have been hurting terribly, yet his concern was all for others. Today, Godfrey doesn’t stay because he has plans for a light lunch on another boat but before he leaves he gives us news of another club member, Colin who is sailing round Britain. ‘He’s got as far as Scotland,’ Godfrey tells us, ‘simply by turning left and left again. He’ll probably write a little book about it.’
Next morning we’re up at six to catch the tide home. Although I don’t ‘do’ early even I can appreciate the beautiful pale lemon dawn. There are no other vessels in sight but we are visited by a harbour porpoise riding alongside the boat. A pair of gannets dive into the sea, straight as arrows, oystercatchers ‘kipkip’ as they pass and a gathering of Manx shearwaters cloud the surface of the water only scattering at the last moment. It’s times like this that make sailing worthwhile.
The Captain Prepares to Repel Boarders
Cardiff Half Marathon Training
Runner’s World SmartCoach Programme Week 6 = 18 slightly nervous miles since the dog bite. A 2 mile deficit (lost at sea). Backside on the mend. Rogue dog caged in with new fencing. Also given quite a scare by yet another JRT on the lonely farm where Lily once suggested they might keep me and turn me into sausages if they saw me. Plenty to keep me on my toes then.
Comments
Well done on the distinction - clever, clever. Ah, well, we all knew you were a good writer, didn't we? Lots of nodding and 'told you so' faces from your PC chums.
The sailing sounds lovely 'watching the sun bleach to apricot and the amethyst clouds darken to pewter' I could deal with that. And the whisky!
Take care
Jude
I also felt as if I got to know that vicar pretty well. I liked the way you gave us several shades of his personality.
Best wishes with the running, and ... how I hope that those pesky dogs stay far away.
xo
I can imagine your friend the Vicar and hear the laughing and rude comments as if I were on the water too.
So congratulations on the result of your OU course... and I feel a bit sick just reading the account of your sea faring.
CKx
Your trip sounds magical - and a HUGE belated congratulations on the distinction.....YES, Kitty - we knew, we know.....certainly well-deserved. jxx
I like the sound of Godfrey - he seems to be a real character!
Well done on the running.
x
Jude, you've seen more than I have - Mrs Bay of Biscay (I wouldn't have seen that at all!).
Rosie, reluctantly I have to agree that the good bits are good, trouble is the bad bits are terrible!
Mel, thanks sweetheart.
Frances, you certainly meet some characters when you're sailing... something to do with the fear factor or lack of!
Pondside, I bet your stomach wasn't lurching as much as mine! I decided to err on the side of caution when it came to reporting the behaviour of the Cherbourg BB Old Boys... they misbehaved terribly!
Pfg, thank you - and I wish I knew what it is! I adore JRTs but they're not too keen on me!
JJ, glad you got here in the end... did you bring a pineapple with you? Thanks for the congrats.
Kate, you and Rosie will have to get yourselves out for a sail together. Glad you've signed up for the OU course.
Hi Jane, good to see you and thanks. If I ever meet Asbo I shall be sure not to wear my running gear - just in case!
Gaelikaa, I shall have to look up where you are. You must miss the sea, but you have so many other sights and sounds now. Thanks for your good wishes.
Reminds me of one of my favourite Tennyson poems: Sunset and evening star / and one clear call for me / And let there be no moaning of the bar / when I put out to sea
Excellent title, too (and glad to hear you're managing to outwit the terriers en route - must add a whole new challenge to running).
Lovely, atmospheric blog, Chris. xx
We lived in Goodwick for a while - my great uncle was the local alcoholic doctor. Bless.
As for the dog episode, my MiL who lives not far from Holyhead, told me about a guy who reckons he trains his dogs to go for runners because he doesn't like them - eejit! And surely that's illegal or something?
Huge congratulations on getting distinction in your OU course.
Elizabeth, the ratio of purely good trips to horrendously scary ones has needs some balancing - I hope this is the start of some rather boring trips!
Fia, well I never - it's a small world, isn't it? Little did I know what had gone on there as I drank my toast to the twinkly lights of Goodwick!
Bradan, I suppose you could say, in your Mil's acquaintances favour, that it makes the runner run like sh*t off a shovel - not to put too fine a point on it - although the next time it happens to me I shall be running to the relevant authorities! Good to see you again. (And thank you).
SBS, none of them are ports of refuge - getting into Aberystwyth is pretty damn scary anyway; it looks as if you're being sent straight on to rocks. Now start getting into training for all those canals!
I would have loved sailing if my grandfather hadn't forced us out in all weathers in his boat, Captain Morgan. My sister was in the terrible Fastnet race. Very grateful that I wasn't.
Helen
Straight From Hel
I'm pleased to hear the JRT is properly incarcerated. Little bugger.
Love the sound of Geoffrey.
Helen, now that's the kind of story that really makes me afraid. The swinging boom used to frighten the life out of me on the old wooden boat - with the pig boat it's hoisted up above head level. Unfortunately I do know someone whose sailing companion went overboard and drowned. You and your very tall husband were, I'm so pleased to read, very lucky.
Mags no, it will always be a pig boat to me! Besides, I know it's only lulling me into a false sense of security. I agree, I like the frapping of rigging lines... it drives Tom mad!
Fp, but I bet you don't miss struggling with the pump on the heads and other delights!
Aw, thanks Tam!
Debs, I'm afraid nothing works for me... but, shhh!, I haven't been sick on the pigboat yet. But then most of last year I was too busy trying not to drown on it to be sick.
Love your descriptive words Chris.... watching the sun bleach to apricot.... but then we do know your are a brill writer anyway.!
Big pat on the back with the running Chris.
xx
Fennie, I'm sure there were some Orca rumours last year... but I really, really don't want one to pop up anywhere near me when I am on a boat! Although knowing my luck...
Pip, thank you - all cheers gratefully received!
Camilla, you are very kind. Thank you.